Drive, Cycle, Cycle, Canoe, Swim, Canoe, Cycle, Swim
Friday was all about driving, as we made our way North, to the outskirts of Limoges, passing over the Millau Viaduct. Not our first crossing but I remember driving this way when it was partly built. The viaduct design team was led by a French engineer and English architect, Norman Foster.

Our destination was Ferme de Chantecaille, another France Passion site. A small holding that raises chickens , grows veg and fruit. On site there was a small farm shop. Not the best view we’ve had on this holiday as we are parked in the farmyard but the chicken, peas, goats cheese and beer made a great dinner.



On Saturday we headed to the Loire Valley and we have booked into our first formal campsite as we need to service the motorhome (fresh water etc) and do some laundry. Le Moulin Fort campsite is on the banks of the Le Cher river and just upstream from Chateau de Chenonceau. Our pitch was on the banks of the river, back to great views, and whilst we had lunch we let the campsite washing machine do the hard work.

After lunch and a quick cycle to the local shop for more supplies, we made the decision to hire a canoe and paddle down to the Chateau and explore the river. The season hasn’t fully got underway so the nearest canoe company wasn’t yet open, so we had to cycle further upstream to find one open. We decided we would also go for a river swim, so put I put a swimsuit on under shorts and shirt, but Charlie just wore his swim shorts and shirt. About 2 mins into the cycle Charlie had, what can only be described as a wardrobe malfunction, swim shorts are not made for cycling in. After a little adjustment,we could cycle on without fear of frightening the horses, oncoming cyclists, walkers or just the generally curious! Not really sure who I could call on to explain that to a French policeman!
After around 30 mins cycling we arrived at the supposedly open canoe hire company, but… not a soul,not a canoe or a paddle, so we turned around and headed back and after 20 mins came across a company that had trailered in some canoes to a launch site not far from our campsite. So a canoe was hired.
The paddle downstream to the Chateau was gentle and idyllic, clear water, lots of fish and hardly any other people on the river. Even Charlie’s shorts behaved, I’ve checked the photo!

The Chateau is built across the river, the river was quite low so you had to pick your arch to go through!

Once we negotiated the arch, we drifted backwards so we could fully appreciate the Chateau.

Going downstream was gentle and idyllic, paddling upstream however was a very different matter. The water looks calm and gentle but it took real effort to paddle back through our chosen arch. We saw several other canoes struggling to the point where they just headed to the shoreline and pulled their canoe through the shallows until the flow and current had lessened. We got through the arch, with a little marital discord due to a few communication problems 😜 but we made it, but 20 metres the other side we were going nowhere so Charlie jumped and pushed us for about 50 metres in the shallows. Once we were underway, we paddled a short distance and pulled over for a swim.

We paddled back to our starting point where the canoe man was very impressed that we had paddled just past the Chateau, got back through the arch, stopped for a swim and got back, inside the 2 hours they allow for the trip. Apparently we had completed the journey in a very good time!

We cycled back to the campsite in time for a final swim in their pool, showers and dinner. Tonight we ate at the campsite brassiere which was fine as we had done a lot of cycling,canoeing and swimming and it was lovely to let someone else cook.


I’ll leave you tonight with this thought….
When since have ducks, geese, waterfowl in general, been ffffffing nocturnal? Not hardly a squeak, squawk or quack from them all day, now it’s like the waterbird version of the dawn chorus. They haven’t fffing stopped since we got back from dinner and it’s now midnight.