4th to 7th October
Autumn is certainly drawing in now. The Dordogne was shrouded in fog so heavy that the drips on the motorhome roof made me think it was raining and as we had left our chairs outside, no one noticed the naked woman rushing to fold chairs and put them inside before they became too damp.
When we did get up, the river that had been so visible yesterday, was invisible. We had planned to make a start for our next stop in the Loire Valley by 10.30 am latest, but a work call meant we didn’t get away until midday. By this time the fog burnt off and the sky was blue and the temperature had gone up considerably.
I was taking pictures when I heard a rhythmical swoosh, swoosh behind me, I turned expecting to see early morning canoeists or kayakers but the sound was the wings of a pair of swans as they flew low over the river.
It was a 5 hour drive to Amboise and as we had left later than planned, we arrived late in the afternoon. Our campsite was on the Amboise Ill d’Or, an island in the middle of the Loire, almost opposite the Chateau Royal d’Amboise. This was the palace of Renaissance French Kings and burial place of Leonardo da Vinci. Unfortunately it was closed by the time we walked into town and currently the Chapel, where da Vinci’s tomb can be viewed, is undergoing restoration and therefore closed to the public. We did however get to see a couple of hot air balloons take off just behind our pitch and then glide down the Loire in the light of the setting sun.
After drinks and a delicious 3-course dinner in a brasserie, (where Charlie found a wine with his name all over it), we walked back across the bridge to our campsite and in the lamplight noticed that the bridge and all the street lamps were covered in huge spider webs that were catching the abundance of midges that were flying about.
The Chateau was beautifully lit up at night, but I think we have left warm evenings behind, it was distinctly chilly on the walk back.
The 5th was mainly about driving north, our ultimate destination was Normandy, where we would pitch up at an old friend’s house for the night. We knew Ness from our late teens/early 20’s when a large group of us used to meet in The Blue Boys on the A21. This old coaching inn is now a Burger King!
We did make a pit stop however at Le Mans to visit the museum. Although Charlie has attended the Le Mans 24 hour race many, many times over the years, it had been a while since he had looked round the museum. I went to Le Mans last year for the first time, (you can read about it in an earlier post), but didn’t visit the Museum. The museum isn’t huge and has cars on display from all the decades that the race has taken place. Interesting for those with an interest in cars, however I did think they were missing a trick in the presentation of the museum. The Le Mans 24 hour has a unique atmosphere, which the museum fails to capture and with imaginative use of technology the displays, the history and the atmosphere could be recreated in such a way that would deliver a unique visitor experience. The museum always does not g celebrate the roles that LMP2 and GT have played in making the race what it is today.
After the museum and quick supermarket shop we made our way to Ness and Graham’s where we spent an evening sat outside next to the fire pit, eating, drinking and reminiscing and laughing at old photos. Charlie had machine envy, as Graham has a shed full of tractors, mowers, hedging, logging and digging machinery!
We woke up to a really chilly morning at only 6 degrees. We said our goodbyes as we had another day on the road, heading to our last pitch up of the holiday. Le Crotoy on the Baie de Somme has become a favourite, as this pretty seaside town is packed with good restaurants and seafood stalls, and has an enormous motorhome site, just 2 mins from its centre. We were last here in June and we couldn’t get a table at any preferred restaurant so this time we have booked in advance.
It was warm when we arrived and after driving long hours for a couple of days, it was good to get out walk around the tidal marshland before the sun lost its heat. I couldn’t believe I was still sat outside in a t-shirt and shorts at 5pm writing this in 20 degree sunshine. Once the sun goes down and the breeze gets up, it doesn’t take long for the temperature to drop.
So pleased we booked ahead, had an amazing meal at L’Auberge de la Marine in Le Crotoy, we both had scallops and then I had sea bass and Charlie had a filet mignon of wild boar, then I had an apple dessert and Charlie had a plum dessert, and there were also an amuse bouche, pre-dessert and petit fours, so feeling fat and happy. Relatively early to bed tonight as we have get a shufty on tomorrow, as we are on an early train.
Our Tour de France 2023 has come to an end and we are waiting at the Channel Tunnel for our crossing. This is our last big trip of 2023, the motorhome will probably accompany us to The South Downs Stages at Goodwood in December where Charlie and the Escort will be competing, so perhaps one more post in 2023.
Jusqu’a la prochaine fois!
RoundandAbout 